Fira - the dark side

Anyone who knows me knows that I am passionate about honor and integrity. I am in no way way perfect but I am deeply committed to a sense of fair play. With that said - read on if you are prepared to hear my unvarnished view of the Greek people on Santorini. It ain't pretty.

Today we did a day trip into Fira (Theira) and poked about in the shops and kiosks along the narrow people filled streets. It was really enjoyable.

Great jewelry and assorted nicknacks at every turn. Even better than most touristy places they have managed to get the name Santorini on just about anything to make it into a souvenir. How about a Santorini soccer ball or a  nice set of Santorini sunglasses. At the same time - there were a number of very creative shops selling handmade jewelry, painting etc. I really enjoy seeing the creativity that comes from a community where "some" conclusions can be drawn about how people live and the lifestyle choices they make.

And from the hilltop (The town of Fira is on a hillside that works its way up to a sharp peak) you can go down the other side to the old Port pictured below. You can make out the switchbacks going down the hillside which really is an engineering marvel to me. The cross pieces are white marble with cobblestone in between. There are about 650 steps or 1300 up and down. (It felt like 5million on the way back up)

You do, however, have a choice and can travel in either direction or both by Donkey or Tram. The cost is reasonable and there is definitely he potential for fun here. Pictured below are Brigitte and Stevie atop 2 of probably 100 donkeys available.

All in all, Santorni is a beautiful place endowed with an abundance of natural beauty, amazing weather and water that is perfect for recreational swimming or snorkeling.

But a couple things I want to talk about that have become obvious to me on the Island. First, it's as though someone has taken a luffa sponge and systematically scrubbed off any traditional Greek culture that may have existed here. There is no industry other than "taking money from tourists in any way possible" and there is no interest in protecting even the memories of the traditional Greek way of life. The other casualty of this movement is the Greek people's honor and dignity. Pride and integrity have been replaced by false bravado and hollow proclamations of honor that are really just a thinly veiled disguise enabling the greater percentage of the population to scam tourists for even more money.

The island is full of crooks and outright thieves who have no sense of decency or humanity whatsoever. Whether its the grocery clerk who adds up your purchases incorrectly on the handheld calculator or the two shop owners operating in cahoots to claim that you have paid the wrong person for your goods and must pay again -it is pathetic and disgusting. I expect this behavior in parts of the world where people are genuinely poor and  are begging through the sale of trinkets for their very subsistence, but this is not the case in Santorini. It's just plain greed and dishonesty at it's worst.

We have been either ripped off or had to fight to avoid a scam on so many occasions that I vow never to return to this cesspool of deceipt or spend another dollar other than what I have to before leaving the country (our transportation was booked incorrectly so we ended up having to spend 2 more days here). The Greeks have adopted and developed a culture of tax avoidance (sorry cash only), nepotism, favoritism and pride in deceiving others. They have gone on to perfect and pass down to new generations this set of norms to the detriment of most things important to a nation. What happened to this birthplace of western civilization where some of the greatest thinkers passed on to us rich and brilliant ideas like democracy, geometry and philosophy. These were really smart people - what a disappointment.

And on the Donkeys - the animals are abused and in need of proper care and attention, the tourists would pay for the donkey ride and the operators (there are many and none in charge) claim that they have not been paid so the frustrated tourist has have to walk up the 600 stairs in the 35 degree heat. In this mini-enterprise, not unlike many, these are just con-men  preying on well meaning tourists generously prepared to pay good money for services offered. Again - it is pathetic and disgusting to me.

Judging from what I have seen in Santorini, the EU bailout was a mistake as the majority of citizens have little or no trust or respect for formal systems of government and should be left to their own devices to work it out for themselves. I get buyer beware and for that reason will not travel here again unless there are substantial changes in the culture.

Just thought I'd state how I really feel and get that off my chest - that feels better now!!!. For the record, we're only out about$35 dollars that we know of....but its the sting of the con man who smiles sweetly and then deceives you that leaves a mark....oooouch!