While we are technically hangin in Montpellier, we are really in a small village just north called Saint Drezery. I'm guessing the population is less than 500 and its about 30kms from the city. It's a thousand year old village with single lane roads, a cute little village and vineyards in every direction. .
We are in a little villa with friends enjoying the feel of this part of the world. It's tranquil, sleepy and completely relaxing The little village is a maze of streets just wide enough for the car with the buildings right up to the road on both sides. There is a meat shop, a bakery and few other essential shops but very quiet.
We got ourselves together this morning and headed to a place called Aigues- Mortes. This is a city within medieval walls perfectly preserved over the centuries. It was from here that the 7th crusade was sent in the 13th century. This became a save place from the bands of marauding outlaws many years ago. Now the inside is full of residences and little curio shops where your credit card is anything but safe.
When hustled back to St. Drezery for the running of the bulls. All day I was excited by the prospect of running with the bulls. If Earnest Hemmingway did it - why shouldn't I? Am I not a man? Am I not a bit stupid? Why not run down the street in front of thousands of pounds of pissed off bull?
So surprisingly for me it's not just Pamplona where the bulls run, but many towns throughout Spain and Southern France. 6 bulls are lead through the towns narrow streets with local "cowboys" leading them along. The trick is to keep the bull contained as it is paraded through the street. It's very exciting to see because it's fast - noisy and over the top with excitement. The real "cowboys" are the young town boys who will try to get as close to the bull as possible. In doing so, they build their reputation for bravery (or stupidity - you be the judge) The ultimate feat it to grab the bull by the horns and bring it to the ground.
The bulls don't do what they're told. Most got loose and angrily attack anything that moves. They are surprisingly agile, very fast and strong. At one point a bull charged a chain link fence and bent all the metal posts over. I saw one boy of about 13 get the bull by the tail and get dragged a bit - he leapt to his feet just in time to see his mother come running out and slap him silly for being so stupid. The walloping from his mom did little to displace the huge grin on his face. He now has a reputation. Huh!
And so of course I ran with the bulls. It was incredibly exciting and fun. A casual bond of oneness is quickly formed between the taunters and there are handshakes and kisses and shouts of bon chance to one another as they prepare to release the bulls. Each year people are hurt though not seriously most of the time. Death is unusual but possible.
In the video below the bull escaped the horses and ran up into the trees. In my enthusiasm to see where he went, I ended up in a rather bad spot and for a moment was paralzed with fear as he burst from between the trees with bits of branches caught in his (uncut by the way) horns. The fences are built so that you can escape between the bars...but to do so you have to get there first. When the panic moment comes - all bets are off as everyone races for the the fence.....My family was not very happy with me but I wouldn't have missed it for the world.
When hustled back to St. Drezery for the running of the bulls. All day I was excited by the prospect of running with the bulls. If Earnest Hemmingway did it - why shouldn't I? Am I not a man? Am I not a bit stupid? Why not run down the street in front of thousands of pounds of pissed off bull?
The bulls don't do what they're told. Most got loose and angrily attack anything that moves. They are surprisingly agile, very fast and strong. At one point a bull charged a chain link fence and bent all the metal posts over. I saw one boy of about 13 get the bull by the tail and get dragged a bit - he leapt to his feet just in time to see his mother come running out and slap him silly for being so stupid. The walloping from his mom did little to displace the huge grin on his face. He now has a reputation. Huh!
And so of course I ran with the bulls. It was incredibly exciting and fun. A casual bond of oneness is quickly formed between the taunters and there are handshakes and kisses and shouts of bon chance to one another as they prepare to release the bulls. Each year people are hurt though not seriously most of the time. Death is unusual but possible.
In the video below the bull escaped the horses and ran up into the trees. In my enthusiasm to see where he went, I ended up in a rather bad spot and for a moment was paralzed with fear as he burst from between the trees with bits of branches caught in his (uncut by the way) horns. The fences are built so that you can escape between the bars...but to do so you have to get there first. When the panic moment comes - all bets are off as everyone races for the the fence.....My family was not very happy with me but I wouldn't have missed it for the world.
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