Fira - the dark side

Anyone who knows me knows that I am passionate about honor and integrity. I am in no way way perfect but I am deeply committed to a sense of fair play. With that said - read on if you are prepared to hear my unvarnished view of the Greek people on Santorini. It ain't pretty.

Today we did a day trip into Fira (Theira) and poked about in the shops and kiosks along the narrow people filled streets. It was really enjoyable.

Great jewelry and assorted nicknacks at every turn. Even better than most touristy places they have managed to get the name Santorini on just about anything to make it into a souvenir. How about a Santorini soccer ball or a  nice set of Santorini sunglasses. At the same time - there were a number of very creative shops selling handmade jewelry, painting etc. I really enjoy seeing the creativity that comes from a community where "some" conclusions can be drawn about how people live and the lifestyle choices they make.

And from the hilltop (The town of Fira is on a hillside that works its way up to a sharp peak) you can go down the other side to the old Port pictured below. You can make out the switchbacks going down the hillside which really is an engineering marvel to me. The cross pieces are white marble with cobblestone in between. There are about 650 steps or 1300 up and down. (It felt like 5million on the way back up)

You do, however, have a choice and can travel in either direction or both by Donkey or Tram. The cost is reasonable and there is definitely he potential for fun here. Pictured below are Brigitte and Stevie atop 2 of probably 100 donkeys available.

All in all, Santorni is a beautiful place endowed with an abundance of natural beauty, amazing weather and water that is perfect for recreational swimming or snorkeling.

But a couple things I want to talk about that have become obvious to me on the Island. First, it's as though someone has taken a luffa sponge and systematically scrubbed off any traditional Greek culture that may have existed here. There is no industry other than "taking money from tourists in any way possible" and there is no interest in protecting even the memories of the traditional Greek way of life. The other casualty of this movement is the Greek people's honor and dignity. Pride and integrity have been replaced by false bravado and hollow proclamations of honor that are really just a thinly veiled disguise enabling the greater percentage of the population to scam tourists for even more money.

The island is full of crooks and outright thieves who have no sense of decency or humanity whatsoever. Whether its the grocery clerk who adds up your purchases incorrectly on the handheld calculator or the two shop owners operating in cahoots to claim that you have paid the wrong person for your goods and must pay again -it is pathetic and disgusting. I expect this behavior in parts of the world where people are genuinely poor and  are begging through the sale of trinkets for their very subsistence, but this is not the case in Santorini. It's just plain greed and dishonesty at it's worst.

We have been either ripped off or had to fight to avoid a scam on so many occasions that I vow never to return to this cesspool of deceipt or spend another dollar other than what I have to before leaving the country (our transportation was booked incorrectly so we ended up having to spend 2 more days here). The Greeks have adopted and developed a culture of tax avoidance (sorry cash only), nepotism, favoritism and pride in deceiving others. They have gone on to perfect and pass down to new generations this set of norms to the detriment of most things important to a nation. What happened to this birthplace of western civilization where some of the greatest thinkers passed on to us rich and brilliant ideas like democracy, geometry and philosophy. These were really smart people - what a disappointment.

And on the Donkeys - the animals are abused and in need of proper care and attention, the tourists would pay for the donkey ride and the operators (there are many and none in charge) claim that they have not been paid so the frustrated tourist has have to walk up the 600 stairs in the 35 degree heat. In this mini-enterprise, not unlike many, these are just con-men  preying on well meaning tourists generously prepared to pay good money for services offered. Again - it is pathetic and disgusting to me.

Judging from what I have seen in Santorini, the EU bailout was a mistake as the majority of citizens have little or no trust or respect for formal systems of government and should be left to their own devices to work it out for themselves. I get buyer beware and for that reason will not travel here again unless there are substantial changes in the culture.

Just thought I'd state how I really feel and get that off my chest - that feels better now!!!. For the record, we're only out about$35 dollars that we know of....but its the sting of the con man who smiles sweetly and then deceives you that leaves a mark....oooouch!

A bit of R&R on Santorini

Well the last few days and the next couple are just relaxing and exploring this beautiful Greek island. I have to admit that at first the beauty was lost on me. That is until our sunset sail last night. There are about 6000 islands in Greece broken up into 7 major groups. Santorini and Mykonos are the best known of the Cyclades group located roughly 200kms from mainland Greece. Santorini is a pretty new place. Although it was colonized in 3000 BC, there was a major volcano in 1450 BC that renewed the landscape from that point forward. If you can imagine, the volcano is about 10 kms across the part above the water and 40% of the ring and the center are below water. So it looks like a half eat donut really. And then in 1950 a significant eruption occurs in the center of the volcano forming another island (though currently uninhabited) Below you can see the outline of the volcano (called a caldera once filled with water) and the island that formed in 1950 (New burnt Island)

So they discovered the remains of the Minoan settlement but the island does not have a lot of history. and what is unattractive about it is the grey dirt that makes up most of the island at this time of year. You really want to be close to the ocean looking outward to appreciate the beauty. The water is clear. You can easily see 20 or 30 ft below you when swimming. Its quite remarkable. What is eye-catching is the white houses set against the mountain with the Agean sea sparkling below. The inked in arrow is where out hotel/apartment is located.

We caught a sailboat from the West side of the island and sailed to the "new island" formed as I said earlier in 1950. What was interesting here is that all the rocks are new. There is little vegetation - just a big pile of rocks. We did a quick walk about and snapped a couple pics. First the sailboat and below that yours truly standing amongst the black rock of the island. Looking closely at it you can imagine the liquid rock flying into the air like a spilled glass of milk , hardening in the air and breaking into these great chunks as it lands. Fairly cool I think.



Pictured here are some old ruins and also some rocks...hehe



We went on to another island and swam with the group in the turquoise water and into a hot spring where that water was orange. You can see it below as Stevie, Jake and I do a bit of swimming.

Onto the north end of the island where we anchored and had dinner which was surprisingly good. Included was a local white wine that was a real standout in our amateur opinion. After dinner we sailed back back and forth the north end of the island and watched the sun sink into the ocean. I looked over at Santorini and the top of the island is covered with cars and people all watching this spectacular sight. And as we tacked back to the harbour the island were framed by the setting sun behind them turning the entire horizon into a pallet of reds, oranges, pinks and blues that we will never forget.  Below are a couple shots.

Here's a couple family shots from the day just for fun. Please note the captions below as I believe that each one tells an important story.

I am having such a good time!!!

I am having such a good time!!!

I am having such a good time!!!!

How the hell will I ever pay for all of this!!!! Can you say second mortgage??



Santorini

We arrived in Santorini Greece early in the morning and checked into our hotel . Evelyn the owners daughter made us feel right at home in the is beautiful little hotel. We hit the pool almost immediately which is very very cool. Delicious after what is already a very hot day. I'll talk more about Santorini over the next day or so as we're here for 4 nights with a view to spending equal amounts of time exploring the Island and reading a good book or 2 on the sun drenched black sand beaches. And oh yeah - the odd dip in the bathwater warm Aegean sea...

As yet unnamed, we share the yard with a number of goats. Jake and Stevie befriended the little rascal immediately and have been feeding him whatever they can find. He's a cute little guy and likely delicious!!

More to come on sunsets at Santorini as we are sailing around the island tomorrow, visiting the volcano, a number of swim beaches (Red White and Black sand)  with a sunset finish. I hear the sunsets are spectacular and watching the sun slide into the ocean in this part of the world is an experience of a lifetime. Looking forward to it!



Milan - Old world new money

 

Not sure what Brigitte is so happy about - its a 4 hr train ride to Milan....must be the coffee

 The Romans say that the Milanise (in the north of Italy) are up tight and too focused on work. The Milanise say that the Romans (in the south of Italy) are blood suckers living a lifestyle afforded to them by what happens in Milan. Fair enough....Milan is crisp clean and efficient -  Rome is anything but. That said - The entire world envies Rome's ability to live big and to enjoy the moment. This is another magical quality that makes Italy so interesting. As said previously "Il dolce far niente"

All of Milan revolves around Duomo. This is the center of the city, the main church and the shopping which is in my view unparalleled any place in the world I have been so far. La Scalla (the world's most famous opera house) is here. It a magical and exciting place.

Pictured above is the Duomo Church in central Milan. The 4th largest church in Europe, its a bit different than many of the others we have looked at to date. Given some of the historical changes going on at the time of this construction, the powers that be were interested in impressing the Austrians and French - hence the more Gothic look of the church. Darker and waaaay more gargoyles which really appeals to me. I 'm fascinated by gargoyles and have spent too much money on replicas already. The inside is large and dark. It (in my humble opinion) does not have the same mystic qualities as some of the others. It uses size to make the point rather than technique and ingenious architecture. Remember the domes at St. Peter's? It has none of that.

We did a bit more schlepping about through the streets of Milan looking at the various sites and enjoying the feel of the city. The train station was a Mussolini- built building with a view to impressing all those who arrived or departed from Milan at this location. It is large and impressive but full of cons and pickpockets. You really have to watch yourself here. The other things; the bathrooms are expensive. It's $2 to use the facilities so many choose quiet out of the way place to relieve themselves. That's number 1 and 2 for the record - nice. I really can't get this through my head. All the work Milan does and has done to make their city livable and they do this.

Duomo center - every name brand on the planet - really beautiful suff.

NOW - here is what Milan is really about: Fashion and shopping. People watching is best in this city. Again - most of the goings on are near Duomo where the shopping is the best I have seen. We saw cool motorcycles

How cool is this rocket ship - this is sexy! Claims to be the fastest motorcycle in the world - not sure about that but it sure looks like it is.

visited the Ferrari shop. Watched with fascination as Brigitte and Stevie squeal in front of the Gucci store and others. We stumbled across a "department store" that makes Barney's in New York look like Walmart . 8 floors of the hottest sexiest coolest stuff I have ever seen. Jake - in a very funny moment looked up after checking the price of a winter jacket said "I'm not sure if this is the price or serial number"! Oh yeah - it was expensive stuff. The kind of price that even if you brace yourself you're surprised. And then you see the customers loading up with $2000 purses and $1500 pairs of shoes.....where does this kind of money come from? I agonize over the decision given the difference in price of entry level Asics ($129) and the performance level ($169) and usually settle for the economy version. It amazes me. Still - watching the people dressed up in all this gear is beautiful. Fashion is fun to watch - I just don't want to pay....


Jake is clearly surprised by the pricing on the menu.



Even more surprised  - we though he may have heart failure so called for defibrillators

Above Jake checks out the prices at one of the street-side restaurant. You can tell by the look on his face that the prices are not for the faint of heart. Pasta and a good glass of wine in Milan followed up by a fine Gelato. Another perfect evening in Italy. Catching a flight to Santorini Greece in the morning for some R&R on the Agean.....should be ok :)

Florence - the jewel of Italy.

 

Florence is pretty. Wrapped around the Arno river, it takes advantage of the geography and at the same time provides the necessities for a touristy place where people have to live and work. Its nicely set out for all "users". It also has art everywhere. I LOVE these 2 pieces above found in front of one of the lesser museums in Florence. Check out the "old bridge" below that is covered and full of jewelry shops on both sides. Between Stevie and Brigitte ooooing and awwing we just made it through.

But here's where Florence gets really interesting. The Uffizi museum rocks. There is a fair amount of art (mostly sculpture) in the square. While the real "David" by Michelangelo is housed at the accadia museum a short distance away, the Uffizi square was where it stood for most of it's life. There is a cast replica in the original spot and some other famous works that for me were stunning.

David with a pigeon....beauty and functionality

Above are 2 pictures of the sculpture I have liked best so far. I absolutely love this piece. There is so much movement and passion communicated by this work. It seems to me to be screaming about the injustice. The work is called the rape of the Sabine women by Giambologna.

For more on this work: http://giambologna.comune.fi.it/scheda.php?Id=8&lang=eng

Once inside the museum it is said that there is no place on the planet with more art per square foot. For me there are only 2 pieces that really matter. Both by Botticelli they are The Birth of Venus and Primivera. I couldn't tell you why - I just know I like them and his work in general. There are plenty of other exceptional pieces to see - but these are the standouts in my mind

After the Uffizi we wandered around Florence a bit more wishing we could stay longer. It's the place where our phrase of the day makes the most sense. "Il Dolce far niente" The sweetness of doing nothing.

We then travelled to Nice to drop off the rental car as it has to be left in France or a 2000 Euro penalty would be applied. Not doing that! So we headed to Nice in our little Opel we had affectionately named Wally. And once in Nice - for the first time our luck ran out and the hotel had no record of our reservation. Hmm - Nice at 9:30 in the evening and no room. This was not looking good. We tryed a few hotels and then got lucky. One room left at this smashingly great hotel and though the rate was a bit high - it was an executive room (tons of room) with a rooftop pool and bar. What a great way to end another excellent day in Europe. Pictures are below. Off to Milan tomorrow by train.

The pool on the roof of the hotel - perfect after a hot hot hot day

The view from the roof top bar where we enjoyed a couple cold bevies

Jake and the waiter discuss football and traveling

The Vatican and other super religious stuff

 
Our second day in Rome starts and ends with the  big "V". Between St. Peter's Basilica  and the Vatican museum, there is a lot to see. Add in the fact that we have tortured the kids with a zillion museums over the past days and the fact that it is going to be - ready for this - 40+ degrees today, super V is definitely a whole day.


On the left is the Vatican with St. Peter's in the background. Surrounded by 5 meter columns and really really big - its an awe inspiring moment. St. Peters takes that to next level. The largest church in Europe (Maybe the world) it's on an immense scale. As you walk in, you go "Wow!" and then like the finale of a fireworks display it gets better and better. Above is one of the little wings off the main area.



Check the sculpture above. Taking it in is delicious. The setting, the ambiance, it all combines to be a powerful moment. One that you'll have a hard time forgetting. On the right is one of the many domes on the ceiling of the Church cleverly constructed to give the illusion of heaven above. The interplay of light and painting combine for a spectacular effect. And that's today. Imagine what the "commoners" thought and felt as they gazed upon these spectacular vistas.

On to the Vatican museum reported to be 5.5 kms of hallways and one of the most complete collections of renaissance artwork in the world. (Oh and 40+ degrees - did I mention that? - and the women must have their shoulders and legs covered and the men must wear pants - perfect!)

There are some great sculptures here and I really did enjoy them. Here an early sculpture of our dog Oscar. I've added the real Oscar here for comparison sake. What a handsome fella now immortalized in marble forever. Below - Jake Stevie and Brigitte have found an air conditioner and thought they'd hang there for a while.

 

 There are great paintings throughout. Savadore Dali, Matisse and many of the all star from various times but it really is the ceiling of the Sistine chapel that seals the deal for this great museum. Michelangelo's ceiling depicting the "creation" is as thought provoking as it is awe inspiring. The 12 frescoes on the walls are created mainly by Perugino and Botticelli (my favorite painter) along with others I am not as excited about. But these too are as inspiring and beautiful as the ceiling. Imagine gazing on images of the creation of Adam - or the seperation of light and darkness, the creation of the sun and moon. What an amazing room. It's like the condensed milk of renaissance art. Tomorrow we'll be traipsing around Florence (The jewel of Italy) and doing the uffizi museum. Hope the weather holds.....